PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, have become a major public and environmental health issue.
These chemical compounds, nicknamed “eternal pollutants,” are found in a multitude of everyday products, including cosmetics .
Their persistence in the environment and their impact on human health are raising growing concerns. But what are PFAS actually? Why is their use in cosmetics so widespread? This first part answers these questions by providing an in-depth understanding of PFAS and their unique properties.
1. What are PFAS?
A family of synthetic chemical compounds
PFAS are a large family of chemicals, estimated to number between 4,000 and 14,000 compounds, according to scientific sources. Their main characteristic lies in their unique chemical structure, comprising carbon-fluorine bonds. These bonds are among the strongest in organic chemistry, giving PFAS exceptional resistance to degradation. They are entirely synthetic compounds that do not occur naturally.
Remarkable physicochemical properties
PFAS have physicochemical properties that explain their industrial success:
- Hydrophobicity and lipophobicity : They repel both water and grease, making them ideal for non-stick and waterproofing applications.
- Thermal and chemical stability : They are resistant to high temperatures and many aggressive chemicals.
- Amphiphilicity : Some PFAS are soluble in both water and organic solvents, facilitating their use as emulsifiers and dispersing agents.
These properties make them ingredients of choice for various sectors, ranging from electronics to cosmetics .
A worrying persistence in the environment
PFAS are nicknamed "forever pollutants" due to their inability to break down in the environment. Their chemical stability allows them to accumulate in soil, water, and living organisms. This persistence is a central environmental concern, as it leads to long-term contamination of ecosystems.
Origin and industrial development
Created in the 1950s, PFAS were initially used for their non-stick properties in products like Teflon. Their use quickly spread to other areas, including textiles, food packaging, fire extinguisher foams, and, of course, cosmetics.
Applications in cosmetics
In cosmetics, PFAS play a crucial role thanks to their unique properties:
- Texture improvement : They give a soft and silky feel to products.
- Long-lasting effect : They extend the life of makeup, especially waterproof lipsticks and mascaras.
- Water and oil resistance : Their hydrophobicity makes them essential in moisture-resistant formulations.
- Product uniformity : As emulsifiers, they help stabilize complex mixtures.
Examples of products containing PFAS
PFAS are commonly found in mascaras, foundations, makeup powders, lipsticks, and anti-aging skincare products. Their presence in these products is often due to their ability to improve the performance of formulations.
2. Why are PFAS used in cosmetics?
The chemical and physical properties of PFAS make them particularly popular ingredients in the cosmetics industry. These substances are used to improve product performance, extend their lifespan, and meet consumer expectations for texture, strength, and durability. This section explores in detail the reasons for their use in cosmetics and the products most affected.
Properties sought in cosmetic formulations
PFAS offer specific benefits that justify their inclusion in conventional cosmetic products:
- Hydrophobicity : PFAS repel water, making products resistant to humidity and contact with water, a major advantage for waterproof mascaras and long-lasting lipsticks.
- Lipophobia : By repelling fats, these substances allow products to remain uniform, even in the presence of sebum, which is essential for foundations.
- Texture Improvement : PFAS provide a soft, silky feel, popular in powders and skincare.
- Long-lasting effect : They extend the life of products by improving their adhesion to the skin or lips.
- Chemical stability : Their ability to resist degradation ensures that products retain their properties, even under difficult environmental conditions (heat, humidity).
These unique characteristics enable manufacturers to meet consumers' high expectations for cosmetic performance.
Cosmetic products containing PFAS
PFAS are primarily found in products designed to provide long-lasting wear, water resistance, or improved texture. The most affected product categories include:
- Waterproof mascaras : PFAS are incorporated to ensure water resistance and extend their duration without smudging.
- Foundations : They help maintain even coverage throughout the day.
- Long-lasting lipsticks : PFAS improve pigment fixation, preventing transfer onto glasses or clothing.
- Makeup powders : These substances provide a fine and silky texture, facilitating application and comfort on the skin.
- Anti-aging skincare, deodorants, and sunscreens : PFAS can play a role in stabilizing formulas and improving their resistance to external aggressions, such as sweat or natural skin oils.
Examples of PFAS ingredients in cosmetics
PFAS appear in the INCI list under specific names, which are often difficult for consumers to recognize. Some of the most common include:
- PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene)
- Perfluorodecalin
- Perfluorononyl dimethicone
- Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether
- Perfluorohexane
- Methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether
These ingredients play a variety of roles, ranging from texturizing agents to stabilizers to film-forming agents. Their presence can be masked under generic terms, making them difficult for users to identify.
Why are alternatives not yet widespread?
Despite the risks associated with PFAS, their replacement remains a challenge for the cosmetics industry. Reasons include:
- Reformulation complexity : PFAS are often key ingredients in formulations, and their substitution requires a complete revision of recipes, which can affect product performance.
- Cost of alternatives : Biodegradable or natural substitutes are often more expensive, making their adoption less accessible for some companies.
- Technical constraints : Alternatives must offer the same benefits in terms of texture, hold and resistance, which limits the available options.
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3. What are the dangers of PFAS in cosmetics?
PFAS, while valued for their technical performance, pose serious public health and environmental concerns. Their toxicity, combined with their persistence in the environment, makes them a long-term threat. This section details the impacts of PFAS on human health and the ecosystem, based on scientific studies and accurate data.
Risks to human health
PFAS are bioaccumulative, meaning they gradually build up in the human body over time, through food, water, or even dermal exposure via cosmetics. This accumulation has been linked to numerous adverse health effects:
- Endocrine disruptors : PFAS interfere with the hormonal system, affecting key functions such as growth, reproduction, and metabolism. They are particularly suspected of disrupting the thyroid.
- Immunotoxic effects : Studies have shown that PFAS reduce the effectiveness of the immune system, decreasing the body's ability to fight infections and reducing responses to vaccines.
- Reproductive and developmental toxicity : In pregnant women, exposure to PFAS has been linked to lower birth weights and developmental abnormalities in newborns.
- Carcinogenicity : Some PFAS, such as PFOA and PFOS, are classified as probable carcinogens by health agencies, being associated with liver, kidney, and testicular cancers.
- Cardiovascular and metabolic problems : PFAS are linked to high cholesterol levels and liver dysfunction.
Cosmetics containing PFAS, applied directly to the skin, increase the risk of exposure, particularly through skin absorption.
Environmental impact
The chemical stability of PFAS, while advantageous for their industrial use, represents a major environmental challenge. These substances, resistant to degradation, permanently contaminate ecosystems.
- Soil and water contamination : PFAS readily migrate through soil and groundwater, reaching drinking water sources. Studies have revealed their presence in concerning concentrations in rivers and lakes around the world.
- Atmospheric spread : Some volatile PFAS disperse into the air, causing widespread pollution. They have even been detected in remote regions, such as the Arctic.
- Bioaccumulation in wildlife : These substances accumulate in living organisms, disrupting the food chain. For example, PFAS have been found in the tissues of marine animals and large predators, such as polar bears.
- Risk of transgenerational pollution : PFAS present in the environment can be transmitted to future generations, amplifying their impacts on ecosystems.
Key scientific data
Several studies highlight the dangers of PFAS:
- An analysis of 231 cosmetic products by the Green Science Policy Institute (2021) found that nearly 50% of the mascaras, lipsticks, and foundations tested contained PFAS, often undeclared in ingredient lists.
- A study conducted by Public Health France (2019) demonstrated that 100% of blood samples from pregnant women contained traces of PFAS, confirming their ubiquity and bioaccumulation.
- Research published in 2024 in Environment International found that PFAS can cross the skin barrier, increasing the risk of direct exposure through cosmetics.
Combined effects: the cocktail effect
Exposure to cosmetic PFAS isn't limited to a single source. They often interact with other environmental contaminants, amplifying their harmful effects. This phenomenon, known as the "cocktail effect," poses an even greater threat to human and environmental health.
4. Global and local regulations on PFAS
Faced with the significant risks associated with PFAS, international and national authorities have gradually introduced regulations to limit their use. These laws aim to protect public health and the environment while imposing constraints on the industries concerned, including the cosmetics sector.
International regulations: global initiatives to regulate PFAS
Global efforts to limit PFAS rely on frameworks such as the Stockholm Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants:
- Stockholm Convention (2001) : This international treaty regulates persistent organic pollutants, including certain PFAS such as PFOS (perfluorooctane sulfonate). Since 2009, PFOS has been restricted to specific uses (hydraulic fluids, anti-reflective coatings), while other compounds, such as PFOA, have been banned since 2020.
- Overall objectives : Reduce PFAS emissions through coordinated actions, including the development of alternative technologies and the management of waste containing these substances.
These initiatives set out the basis for countries to incorporate specific restrictions on their industries, including cosmetics.
European regulations: a proactive fight against PFAS
The European Union is at the forefront in regulating PFAS, based on ambitious directives:
- REACH Regulation (1907/2006) : This framework for managing chemicals classifies PFAS as a priority substance for restriction. In 2023, a proposal tabled by five Member States (Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands, Norway, and Sweden) aims to ban the manufacture, import, and use of 10,000 PFAS in Europe.
- EC Regulation No. 1223/2009 : Since June 2020, certain perfluorinated substances, including PFOA, have been banned from cosmetics. This measure is part of a broader strategy aimed at strengthening consumer safety.
- Directive 2020/2184 on water intended for human consumption : Now includes 20 PFAS in its monitoring, with a maximum limit of 0.10 µg/L for their cumulative presence.
The European Union plans a total ban on PFAS in cosmetics by 2026, requiring a rapid transition for manufacturers.
French regulations: a pioneering legislative framework
In France, authorities have adopted a strict approach to reducing the use of PFAS, with particular attention paid to cosmetics:
- Law of April 4, 2024 : This legislation gradually bans the manufacture, import and sale of products containing PFAS, including cosmetics, with full implementation planned for 2026.
- Enhanced monitoring : Manufacturers must now provide detailed reports on their releases and uses of PFAS, contributing to greater transparency and reduced emissions.
This regulation makes France one of the countries most committed to the fight against PFAS in Europe.
Regulation in North America: Diverse Approaches
In the United States and Canada, measures against PFAS are developing at different levels:
- UNITED STATES :
- The No PFAS in Cosmetics Act (2021) aims to ban PFAS in cosmetic products. It is reinforced by the Modernization of Cosmetic Regulation Act (MoCRA), which requires the FDA to evaluate their safety by 2025.
- States such as California, Vermont, and Maryland have already implemented specific bans on PFAS in cosmetics.
- Canada :
- The Chemicals Management Plan includes an assessment of PFAS to reduce their environmental impact. Regulations are being developed to limit their use in cosmetics and other products.
These initiatives reflect a growing awareness in North America, although their implementation varies from state to state.
Challenges and implications for the cosmetics industry
Regulations impose significant challenges on cosmetic manufacturers:
- Product reformulation : Companies must revise their formulations to comply with the bans, a complex and costly process.
- Adaptation to local and international standards : Variations between regional regulations require manufacturers to adapt to the specific requirements of each market.
- Innovation and substitution : The development of alternatives to PFAS requires investments in research and development, but also represents an opportunity for the industry to differentiate itself with safer and more sustainable products.
5. Identification and laboratory analysis of PFAS in cosmetics
To ensure regulatory compliance and consumer safety, analyzing PFAS in cosmetics has become a priority for specialized laboratories. These analyses identify the compounds present, measure their concentration, and verify compliance with current regulations. This section explores the main analytical techniques used and their importance for the cosmetics industry.
Why analyze PFAS in cosmetics?
PFAS testing is essential for several reasons:
- Ensuring product safety : PFAS can be toxic, and their identification is crucial to minimize risks to consumers.
- Ensure regulatory compliance : International regulations impose strict restrictions on the use of PFAS, and testing helps verify that products meet these standards.
- Meeting consumer expectations : In a context where consumers are looking for safer and more natural products, laboratory analyses offer increased transparency.
Analytical techniques used to detect PFAS
Several advanced methods are used to analyze PFAS in cosmetics. These techniques allow for accurate and reliable detection, even at trace levels.
Liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) :
This method is the most common for identifying and quantifying PFAS. It offers high sensitivity and can detect a wide range of PFAS compounds in complex matrices such as cosmetics.
- Application example : Detection of PFAS in mascaras and lipsticks.
Gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) :
Suitable for volatile PFAS, this technique is used for compounds that vaporize easily. It is particularly useful for analyzing aerosols or cosmetic sprays.
- Application example : Identification of PFAS in spray deodorants.
Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) :
This technique allows rapid identification of PFAS in products based on their specific chemical signature. Although less accurate than LC-MS/MS, it is useful for rapid screening.
Migration tests :
These tests check whether cosmetic packaging transfers PFAS to the products it contains. They are essential to ensure that packaging materials meet safety standards, including those set by EC Regulation No. 1935/2004.
Importance of standards and certifications in analyses
Laboratories carrying out these analyses must comply with strict standards to guarantee the reliability of the results:
- ISO 17025 Standard : It establishes general requirements for the competence of testing laboratories, ensuring accurate and valid results.
- COFRAC accreditation : In France, this certification guarantees that laboratories comply with European and international standards for cosmetic analyses.
- EC Regulation No. 1223/2009 : Specifically applied to cosmetics, it imposes safety and composition requirements, including restrictions on PFAS.
Challenges in PFAS Analysis
Despite technological advances, PFAS analysis presents several challenges:
- Matrix complexity : Cosmetics contain a wide variety of ingredients, making it difficult to extract and quantify PFAS.
- Wide diversity of compounds : With over 10,000 possible PFAS, it is sometimes difficult to accurately identify all the compounds present in a product.
- Cost of analysis : Advanced techniques, such as LC-MS/MS, require expensive equipment and specialized expertise.
YesWeLab's contribution to PFAS analyses
YesWeLab, through its network of partner laboratories, offers comprehensive services for the analysis of PFAS in cosmetics:
- Detection and quantification : Precise identification of PFAS present in cosmetic formulations.
- Migration tests : Verification of the conformity of packaging and materials in contact with cosmetics.
- Regulatory support : Assistance in ensuring product compliance with ISO, COFRAC standards and European directives.
- Technical Recommendations : Advice on PFAS alternatives and reformulation strategies.
6. Alternatives to PFAS in cosmetics
Faced with growing concerns about the health and environmental impacts of PFAS, the cosmetics industry is actively exploring safer alternatives. These substitutes must offer similar performance while meeting sustainability and safety requirements. This section details the available alternatives, their benefits, and the challenges associated with their adoption.
Biodegradable and natural substitutes
Biodegradable and natural alternatives are gaining ground due to their low environmental impact and their compatibility with consumer expectations:
- Natural waxes : Derived from plants or bees, these waxes replace PFAS in formulations requiring film-forming properties, such as mascaras and lipsticks.
- Vegetable Oil Esters : These compounds derived from natural oils offer an alternative to PFAS to improve product texture and stability.
- Bio-based polymers : Made from renewable sources such as starch or cellulose, these polymers offer similar properties to PFAS in terms of water resistance and texture.
These substitutes, in addition to their safety, are part of an eco-responsible approach, responding to the growing demand for more sustainable products.
PFAS-free synthetic alternatives
For applications requiring advanced technical properties, PFAS-free synthetic compounds are also being developed:
- Biodegradable polymers : They offer a combination of performance and durability, particularly suitable for cosmetic products requiring long-lasting hold.
- Silicone-based compounds : These materials, although sometimes raising questions about their biodegradability, are a viable solution to replace PFAS in products such as foundations and sunscreens.
- Nanomaterials : When used in a controlled manner, certain nanomaterials can mimic the properties of PFAS, particularly for waterproofing and texture, while exhibiting better environmental compatibility.
Research and innovation in green chemistry
Green chemistry plays a key role in the transition to alternatives to PFAS. The principles of this discipline aim to design chemical products and processes that reduce or eliminate the use of hazardous substances:
- Synthesis of ecological polymers : Development of synthetic polymers that degrade easily without releasing toxic substances.
- Use of green solvents : Integration of non-toxic and biodegradable solvents into manufacturing processes.
- Innovative technologies : Exploration of new chemical structures capable of replacing PFAS while offering equivalent performance.
Challenges in adopting alternatives
Although the alternatives are promising, their large-scale implementation presents several challenges for the cosmetics industry:
- High costs : Natural or innovative raw materials are often more expensive than traditional PFAS, increasing the final price of products.
- Long-term performance : Some alternatives, particularly biodegradable ones, have yet to prove their long-term effectiveness for specific applications such as waterproof products.
- Complex reformulation : Replacing PFAS often requires a complete redesign of formulations, impacting production processes and time to market.
Examples of successful reformulations
Despite these challenges, several cosmetic brands have already integrated alternatives to PFAS into their products:
- Organic waterproof products : Some brands use plant-based waxes and bio-based polymers to achieve PFAS-free water resistance.
- Natural Long-Lasting Lipsticks : Formulated with plant oil esters and mineral pigments, these products offer performance comparable to versions containing PFAS.
Role of laboratories in the development of alternatives
Laboratories play a crucial role in validating alternatives and their integration into cosmetic formulations:
- Performance Testing : Evaluation of hold, texture and stability of PFAS-free formulations.
- Safety testing : Verifying the safety of alternatives for consumers and the environment.
- Reformulation support : Technical assistance to effectively integrate substitutes into existing formulations.
